8.12.2010

Sophistication

For the last four years, I've often heard proprietors of food & drink in St. Louis complain about the customer base lacking the sophistication to appreciate their products and services. This is an easy bandwagon to join, and I'll admit that I've been on it a number of times. I've had my fair share of experiences when frustration got the best of me (Soulard Farmer's Market coffee stand, anyone?).

Isn't this just an excuse?

Why do we need people to be sophisticated to appreciate something good? To me, this means that enjoying something good requires some sort of education. This would then infer that quality is qualified. Goodness is not based, then, on internal substance, but on external opinion or consensus.*

When examining St. Louis, I do notice a much smaller number of successful restaurants and cafes that are able to survive from the merit of their core products. Most great drinking establishments also supply something to eat. Great eating establishments have broad menus. There are, however, quite fewer people living in St. Louis than the more "sophisticated" markets (New York, San Francisco, Portland, London). This results in a lower demand for these core products, so purveyors must offer a wider array of products to stay afloat. These smaller markets cannot support as many of these small, simple concepts.

The secondary result seems to be then, that people are less exposed to such products – at least in a way that demonstrates quality. For instance, there are many places to get coffee in St. Louis, but few places that support themselves solely on that product, therefore the most commonly consumed coffee is that made with sub-standard brewing methods because the purveyor's attention is focused elsewhere. This leads to many fewer people actually being exposed to quality products, which leads to slower growth of a product. I believe this really accounts for our lack of so-called "sophistication."

To break it down˚:

lower population = fewer people that demand quality coffee experiences
fewer people that demand quality coffee experiences = fewer sustainable coffee-focused purveyors
fewer coffee-focused purveyors = slower growth rate of people that demand quality coffee


higher population = more people that demand quality coffee experiences
more people that demand quality coffee experiences = more sustainable coffee-focused purveyors
more coffee-focused purveyors = higher growth rate of people that demand quality coffee

So, the rate at which customers actually are exposed to quality coffee experiences greatly increases in higher-population areas and increases the percentage of people in that population that demand quality coffee experiences. It's a sort of beast that feeds itself (sustainable).˚˚

What I'm getting at here is that markets perceived as more "sophisticated" really just have a much more exposure to quality, focused products (specifically coffee in this case).

What makes this hard to see is that we have true shit-slingers on both sides of the game. People too focused on sophistication** to work in these smaller markets and people in these smaller markets too stuck in unsophistication*** to want to something better. These opinions can be really distracting and can quickly dissuade anyone from doing a better job at exposure. Also, exposure is often only thought of in terms of buying advertising.

So, how do we measure if increased exposure works in smaller markets? Also, how do we make it sustainable? Exposure does not always demand cost, but it certainly will help. Is there a way to make exposure in a smaller market just as sustainable as the high-population model above works? Immediately, I think of social media and online grass-roots type efforts as potential tools. I've also seen some nice examples of businesses trading customer bases through sharing spaces (like a pastry case) or events without needing to remove focus from their core products. I'm curious to hear your thoughts. Anyone have a good example of a smaller market with a booming coffee or specialty product market?

My thoughts turn to small communities that have produced great music over the last 20 years - specifically Chapel Hill and Omaha. Both are small communities with many fewer artists than cities like New York or San Francisco, but the quality of music and art being produced was substantial, especially when compared to larger markets. These cities were producing nearly as many (if not more) notable artists as larger population markets like New York and San Francisco. I'm not sure either of these "music scenes" were/are sustainable, but I'd argue quality, when it comes to music, is much harder to measure in an objective matter.
===
*I do accept that people sometimes need a great guide to access flavors within very concentrated or unusual food & drink like coffee, espresso, whiskey....even beer & wine for folks closer to the legal minimum age


Stereotypes of these type of people:
**"I can't believe he wore flip-flops and a cut-off shirt into my restaurant."
***"Don't give me none of that frothy bullshit, just give me a damn coffee."


˚assuming x% of any random population demands quality coffee.
˚˚anyone know if there is an economic theory similar to this....I'm unlearned.

Slow Coffee

Today I spent a little time on the barista side of the counter at Kaldi's in Downtown Clayton. I was reminded how fascinated customers are with a manual brew when you put it in front of them. This led to a good conversation with the store's manager, Aaron, who shares a passion for good brewing.

Is there a demand in St. Louis for a more manual-brew setting? Is a slow bar something we could support?These are questions that can have obvious answers when you work in the coffee industry and have passionate opinions in either direction, but I'm curious if there is a consumer desire. Anyone else noticing these options missing from most St. Louis area coffee establishments? Let me know.

4.01.2009

Espresso Elevation: reflections from the left coast

Please join me this Friday, April 3 as I present a few key reflections from my recent trip to the west coast. While in Portland, I competed in the United States Barista Championship and placed 6th in the nation. This was an overwhelming and exciting result after years of hard work.

In addition to telling you a bit about why competition is important to the success of espresso bars and cafes, I'll also share with you some trends from the west coast.

To finish, I'll be pulling shots of the Competition Espresso 700 Blend for everyone to enjoy. We'll be featuring this coffee in our cafes, on our website, and to our wholesale customers throughout April.

Hope to see you Friday!

10.17.2008

Kaldi's is excited to announce the 2008 Fall Barista Jam. The event will take place at our roastery on November 7 and 8 and will focus on raising quality at the retail level and preparing for barista competitions. We have some very special guests who will be presenting along with our talented staff of baristas. Check back here, at our homesite or on our events calendar for more details in the week to come regarding registration and schedule.

The jam will include the following:
  • "Love Your Brewer and It Will Love You" presentation
  • "Understanding Co-ops, Microlots, Cultivation, and Quality" presentation
  • "Barista Competition for Dummies" workshop
  • "Cupping Challenge" workshop
  • "Competition Demonstration"
  • "Quality, passion, and service at retail" presentation
  • Latte Art Competition
  • Brewing Methods demonstration and instruction
  • Open espresso machine time and coaching
  • and more to be announced soon
Contact Mike with questions or comments about the jam.

8.22.2008

Cafés to dig - Chicago and KC


Just back from recent trips to Chicago and KC for business and pleasure. I'm a coffee fan by trade and taste. Here's a quick list of cafés to hit while in either town.

Chicago:
Intelligentsia - the South Loop (on Jackson) location is my favorite. Great coffee and aesthetic
Lovely- a great little bakery near Wicker Park. Great barista and patio, too!

Metropolis - on the far north side. Great coffee and the coolest café in town if you've got time.

KC:
Latte land - don't worry about the name - this place is actually rad. The west plaza location was my favorite

Hi-hat Coffee - awesome menu and the nicest baristas in town.

PT's - the best spro in the midwest.

5.08.2008

USBC 2008 - Coffee or Die

Just got back from a week-long trip to Minneapolis for the 2008 World Barista Championship. As many know, I make/sell/deliver/educate-others-about coffee for a living. This was my first USBC and I didn't know what to expect in terms of success or atmosphere going in. Luckily, I got to drive the 600 miles with my coffee-pal and occasional co-worker, Alex McCracken, who has been through such ordeals in the past.

We arrived in Minneapolis last Thursday morning and after briefly saying hello to a few coffee friends from regional competitions and barista jams, we set upon the terrible task of securing last minute dishware and coffee items (think porcelain cups, saucers, shot glasses, windex wipes, lint rollers, table linens, pants, tweezers, basil plants) we forgot.

Thursday quickly grew into Friday and Saturday with occasional bits of Summit beer in-between. Alex and I both went through the stresses and tensions of presenting 12 coffee drinks to seven picky drinkers in 15 minutes - fifteen minutes which turn into days of polishing, practicing, memorizing, and bad-dreaming.

Nevertheless, Alex and I both had success and advanced to the second round of competion. I was thrilled to do so well in my first year of competing, though jostled by the additional round of dishes, worrying, and bad-dreaming that entailed.

The competition was great, but what was better was the community of baristas that get so excited about such events. For the first year, the USBC was streamed live on the interweb, and the commentary coming in from all over the world was great. Immediate feedback and validations for such silly coffee service. I'd like to thank Jon Lewis for his dedication to the coffee community and all he inspires within us budding baristas. If you like coffee, and you like life, read his blog. If it wasn't for Jon, and people like him, I don't think I'd still be able to justify brewing coffee while growing up. Let it flow.


Check out my semi-finals presentation.


And Alex's.

10.31.2007

Musical Language (by Radio Lab)

I'm not sure if anyone in the Midwest is listening yet, but WNYC (New York Public Radio) has been airing a show called Radio Lab for the last couple of years. It's a marriage of science and journalism for the aspiring-hipster geek. The young liberal's best friend, Ira Glass, aired a one of their stories on This American Life about a month back. Since, I've become a frequent listener to the podcast. On my drive to Little Rock last weekend I listened to this amazing episode about music and its affects on the brain, speech, and culture. Here's the mp3 if you'd like to hear it:

http://audio.wnyc.org/radiolab/radiolab042106.mp3

or subscribe to the podcast here:

http://feeds.wnyc.org/radiolab